Apple trees and other pomme fruits (apples, pears, and crabapples) are best adapted to the formal T-Shape and Cordon, while Peaches, Nectarines, Cherries, and other stone fruits (fruits with a single pit in the middle) are best in an informal style.

Once you have selected the site and your tree, you will need to build a frame on which to train your espalier. The technique I prefer is to string grape wire (12 or 15 gauge wire covered with plastic) horizontally from eyebolts on the wall or fence. When stringing the wire, the bottom wire should be about 1 1/2 feet off the ground (1/2 meter). For formal styles, you will need another string of wire for every horizontal side branch you are planning. If the espalier is to be informal, 3 or 4 strings of wire are usually sufficient, although if the tree is going in a windy location, more never hurts!

For a more ornamental effects, wooden trellises can be used, either secured to the wall, or attached to sturdy fence posts sunk into the ground. Whatever you secure your espalier to, remember it needs to be strong enough to support the tree when it is fully laden with fruit!

It is almost always best to start with a young tree that has yet to push out secondary side branches. If this is impossible, look for a young tree with evenly spaced branches. Established trees cannot be espaliered. The bare root fruit trees at Fork & Spade and other mail-order companies should be at just the right age for training as espaliers.

When everything is ready, plant the tree 6 to 8 inches from the it’s support. Make sure the graft is at least 2 inches above the ground level.

For a T-Shape espalier, prune the tree to the height of the bottom wire, making sure to leave at least 3 growth buds below the cut. The growth buds will form into side shoots during the growing season. Tie these securely to bamboo canes to keep them straight and lower the two bottom branches to each side of the wire. Train the third shoot vertically. The following spring, prune this branch to the height of the second wire, again leaving three growth buds below the cut. This process is repeated layer by layer until every wire has two side branches growing on it. Therefor, a 4-wire trellis should take 4 years to develop the form.

For fruit trees which bear fruit on the previous year’s wood, such as peaches, cherries, plums, and other stone fruits, it is necessary to train two sets of branches in parallel to last year’s branches. Each spring, the branches which bore fruit last summer are removed, and each summer a new set of branches are trained alongside the set that will fruit this year. Also, as these trees tend to have a very vertical growth pattern, and can break easily from the main trunk, it is often necessary to cross the branches across the main trunk like someone crossing his arms, as this puts less stress on the base of the branch. In this fashion, the branch which starts on the left, will cross over and be trained along the right side of the tree, and vice versa.

Branches chosen to be part of the design should be tied securely to bamboo canes in order to keep them absolutely straight. When tying the branches, make sure to use tie tape not string or rope, as string will cut into the bark and can kill the branch. Any branches that are not part of the design should be removed each spring.

As you are developing the shape of the espalier, rub off any flower buds, and remove any fruit that develops, as the tree needs to direct its energy into vegetative and root growth until the pattern is developed.

Espalier trees can be a lot of fun, and quite beautiful in the garden. They also save a lot of heavy work associated with full-sized fruit trees, and, when mature, will produce more than enough fruit for a family of. What they do require is some planning, and patience, but in the end you will be rewarded with an interesting and ornamental addition to your garden, sure to catch the eye of every visitor.