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October 2005
Oct 08 2005
Small weed sprayer Print E-mail
Written by Jungle Jim   
Saturday, 08 October 2005

Most of us use a glyphosphate weed control like Roundup or Masters' Kleen-Up as a general weed control. We recommend that you add Surflan (Weed-Impede) as a pre-emergent to help keep the weeds from coming back.

One of the side effects is that often there aren't very many weeds coming up and when we look at our large sprayer in the storage shed we decide to wait a little. Sometimes this means that the weed gets a chance to set seed and start the cycle over again.

An answer I use is the Masters' 1 1/2 qt pump up sprayer. It takes about 1 tablespoon of Kleen-up ( check the directions of the product because some products are at a lighter concentration in particular H and G roundup) plus a little Spray Grip and a little Surflan for a full sprayer.

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I did run into a problem at first. As I was spraying I ran into problems with the feeder tube picking up air and that causes fine spray that drifted more that it should. After a couple of times using the sprayer I had a brain sto0rm, I bent the feeder tupe to the front so when I was spraying the grount the feeder tube picked up the last bit of mixed spray.

What a diference.

A side note.

I have a rose ploanted near where I mix the Kleen-up and as I know very well roses are very sensative to glyphosphate. Just the other dqay I noted a shoot coming up with definate glyphosphate damage. I won't know until next spring whether or not I ruined the rose. I am getting some normal growth too, so I am hoping. It does remind us to be carefull with any weed control product and not just when we are spraying it.

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Sample damage on rose

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a second sample.

If you see this type of damage on other plants vbring in a samploe and let one of our California Certified Nursery Pros diagnose your problem.

 

 
Oct 08 2005
Mulching Mowers vs Catcher Mowers Print E-mail
Written by Jungle Jim   
Saturday, 08 October 2005
Mulching Mowers vs Catcher Mowers

There is no question about what the professionals recommend.

For the uninitiated, the question is between using a grass catcher and sending the clippings to the landfill or even to a organic waste recycling project (like we have here in Modesto), or cutting up the clippings extra-small and letting them disperse into the grass.

Most new mowers are designed to cut the clippings so small in most cases you can't even see them if you leave them behind.

The advantages are several.

1) Obviously it is less work to leave the clippings.

2) Every time you take clipping away you are removing plant nutrients that you have to replace. That means coming into the nursery and buying more fertilizer.

3) By mulching you add organic material to the soil. In the Central Valley, where our normal organic material percent in usually in the low one digits, this can help. As the clippings break down the organic material moves into the soil and adds nutrients, adding to the ability of the soil to retain nutrients and improving the soil texture.

The only down side is when you miss a week and the clippings are so long the mower gums them up and leaves a big mess. Even here if you come back in a couple of hours later when the clippings have had a chance to dry out you can go back over the lawn and mulch them in so they don't show.

In any case the lawn professionals all recommend leaving the clippings except when it is so thick that it is unsightly or in extreme cases so thick it can shade the grass.

 
Oct 19 2005
Modesto's Favorite Nursery Print E-mail
Written by Jungle Jim   
Wednesday, 19 October 2005
I want to thank our customers for voting us Modesto's Favorite Nursery for the 4th year in a row.

Since my parents retired we have tried to build on their insistence on fair dealing with our customer, having the very best plants and supplies possible, and the best information available.


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The Nursery in the 1950's

We have consistently tried to present plants in an interesting manner and help you have gardening success.

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The Nursery now

The cheers from the staff could be heard across Dry Creek when we got word!

Thanks again!

 
Oct 20 2005
Dwarf Redbud Print E-mail
Written by Jungle Jim   
Thursday, 20 October 2005
With today's smaller yards one of the challenges is choosing small tree like plants. Most plants we think of trees grow 20 - 30 ft tall or larger. Often in a yard that is only 15 or 20 ft wide that is just too dominating.

We can choose from some of one of the smaller Crape Myrtles, a tree-form Rose of Sharon or a Dwarf Strawberry Tree. One of my favorite trees has been some of the Redbuds. They are small trees but are often still too large.

From the US National Arboretum I noticed a new Chinese redbud introduction. Usually it takes five to ten years before it shows up in the trade. A few weeks ago Collette, our shrub buyer, noticed Don Egolf Redbud on one of our suppliers lists and brought in ten to look at and see if we can get in a few yards.

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Don Egolf redbud from the Us National Arboretum

From an article at the US National arboretum site.

"Now for the story behind the plant, the type of information which we always find fascinating and which gives the plant a little more "personality." In 1984, seed labeled as Cercis chingii was received by the shrub breeding research group, then headed by Dr. Egolf, from a botanical garden in Kunming, Yunnan, the People's Republic of China. The seed was germinated, and the seedlings were planted in the research fields on the USNA grounds for further evaluation. The late Dr. Theodore Dudley, Arboretum Research Taxonomist, then determined that the seedlings were Cercis chinensis instead of the purported C. chingii.

After 4-5 years of field testing, the research staff noted that one of the plants exhibited a fairly dwarf, slow-growing, compact habit. Additionally, it produced abundant bloom every year but had no seed pods! Preliminary propagation of this particular redbud was also promising in that it was extremely easy to root from cuttings. This redbud selection, the future cultivar 'Don Egolf', was sent for evaluation in 14 states throughout the U.S. in addition to the National Arboretum site. While under evaluation it has shown no signs of invasiveness.

I think this will be an good addition to the small tree like plant choices.

 
Oct 23 2005
Keeping a Green Lawn This Winter Print E-mail
Written by Jungle Jim   
Sunday, 23 October 2005
Now is the time to reseed your lawn if it has had problems with insects or disease this summer. Many lawn have thinned out or developed bald spots. Your lawn doesn't need regular applications of Rogaine. A good overseeding job with Nugget Blend or Rough and Tumble or sun and shadow seed depending on what you have now can really help.

All it takes is to mow short, apply Masterstart fertilizer, the lawn seed and mulch with Gold Rush or Humus. Daily waterings in most cases is enough to keep the seed moist.

If you have a bermuda lawn that you don't like the winter appearance you can over-seed with Annual Rye Grass to keep it green this winter.

In other cases Masters' Fall & Winter Fertilizer will get the lawn growing and green up. This is especially true if your lawn is Medallion or another regular turf-type fescue. They tend to yellow in the winter and you have to act now to correct the problem.

 
Oct 30 2005
An Edible Garden Print E-mail
Written by Jungle Jim   
Sunday, 30 October 2005
Over the last few years we have tried to use the planting area in front of the main gates as a demonstration garden.

This year we are growing an edible garden. Lots of assorted vegetables and edible flowers that make an interesting texture and cololr contrast.

Some suggestions for you would include lettuce, with the different colors and textures available; broccoli and swiss chard (especially Rainbow Lights, a mix of green, red and orange colors). Add in some parsley for texture together with pansies and calendulas as a gatnish and you have a meal right out of the garden.

Check it out.